Thursday, April 18, 2013

Roman Holiday: Eastern Mediterranean Odyssey



Rome Day 1: The Vatican 

The Vatican Museums

The good ship Jade returned us to Civitavecchia where we met our limovan service to Rome. After dropping off our luggage at our hotels near the Termini Train Station we had our driver take us to the Vatican Museum entrance.

The overwhelming Vatican Museum with entrance at far end and Sistine Chapel at near end

Due to the very recent election of Pope Francesco in the Sistine Chapel we knew the chapel would be closed on our visit to the Vatican. It was also closed during Christmas in 1970 when I was last in Rome. Perhaps I will succeed on my third visit.


This bronze pine cone was a Roman fountain and was once in the courtyard of the old St Peter's Basilica


Janice with double-faced Janus heads (January looks forward & back)

Dramatic "per-sona" megaphone masks

Apollo Belvedere is the classical ideal of masculine beauty

Laocoon and his sons were killed by the gods for warning the Trojans: "Beware of Greeks bearing gifts"

Michaelangelo said of the Belvedere Torso: "I am a pupil of the Torso"

Greek bust of Pericles, who built the Parthenon

The long Map Gallery

Raphael's "School of Athens" Fresco


Exiting the museum via the spectacular spiral stairs


Saint Peter's Basilica and Square 


After leaving the museum we followed along the outside of the Vatican walls to enter the long but fast-moving security queue in St Peter's Square to enter the basilica.


Vatican Swiss Guards (no, Michaelangelo did not design their costume but he did design the Basilica)

The basilica is breath-taking in scale and ornamentation

A 24 year-old Michaelangelo carved this Pieta. I saw it up close and without glass in 1970 before it was hacked by a vandal with a hammer in 1972



Janice touches the kiss-polished and worn foot of the statue of St Peter from the old Basilica


John and I climbed the 323 claustrophobic stairs to the dome's cupola for a grand panoramic view of Rome

A telephoto view of the domed roof of the Roman-built Pantheon from St Peter's Cupola

The Vatican Gardens

The roof of St Peter's Basilica



Bernini's Colonnade

A fine filling Italian dinner capped our first day in Roma

Rome Day 2: Day Trip to Tivoli's Villa Adriana and Villa D'Este

Hadrian's Villa (Villa Adriana)


At the end of his far-flung travels of conquest Spanish-born Roman Emperor Hadrian (who ruled A.D. 117-138) built a huge villa complex 18 miles east of Rome in the Sabine Hills to be his retreat seat of government. Though its glory days are long past there is a surprising amount of remains, including pools, mosaic floors and building walls to explore and wonder at.






Tricia-Rose and Bob




Janice & Ron and the buns of stone

Helmeted and shielded but unclothed Mars

Marg, John, Tricia-Rose, Janice & Ron

Venus in the remains of her circular temple

Villa D'Este

 

In the 1550s Cardinal Ippolito, grandson of Pope Alexander VI, destroyed a Benedictine monastery to build himself a late-Renaissance pleasure palace and fantasy baroque water garden in Tivoli, just 2.5 miles from Hadrian's Villa. The once-neglected villa and grounds have been entirely restored.  











Richly ornamented ceilings of the villa



Rome Day 3: Rainy Day Pilgrimage Tour of Rome's Churches


Tricia-Rose had to fly home to work on Monday morning so that left the remaining five pondering what to do with a rainy day in Rome. On Monday most of Rome's museums are closed and with the rain we decided to take Metro to some of the best churches in search of some of Rome's more famous religious relics, architecture and artistic triumphs.


Michaelangelo's horned Moses is in St Peter in Chains Church

These are said to be the chains that bound Peter in prisons in Jerusalem and Rome

Church of San Giovanni in Laterano

San Giovanni in Laterano's huge doors once graced the Imperial Roman Senate


San Giovanni in Laterano's Bishop Chair and  apse mosaics




The inside of the old Imperial Roman Senate Doors


Pilgrims on the Holy Stairs






Naiiad Fountain at Piazza della Repubblica


Bernini's ecstatic Santa Teresa in Santa Maria della Vittoria Church





Rome Day 4: Walk from the Colosseum to Piazza Navonna

 

The Colosseum and the Roman Forum

The shift from an Imperial venue for appeasing the masses with bloody spectacles to tourist trap shows we have learned something over two millennia



Detail of Arch of Constantine


Looking up under the Arch of Titus I saw this detail of an emperor identified with the Imperial Eagle


The level of this Christian church door set into a Roman temple shows the level of the detritus-filled Forum before excavation

The site of Caesar's cremation is still bedecked with flowers

One of many statues in the House of the Vestal Virgins

The base of the Arch of Septimus Severus


Arch of Septimus Severus


Forum from the stairs up Capitoline Hill

Capitoline Hill to Piazza Navonna



Michaelangelo placed the original of this statue of Constantine in the center of his Piazza del Campidoglio on Capitoline Hill

Trajan's Column tells a spiral story of his heroic conquest of the Dacians (the Dacian view was somewhat different)

Trajan also built a huge commercial market

The over-the-top monument to Victor Emmanuel the first king of a unified Italy

The curious Pulcino della Minerva statue near the Pantheon was designed by Bernini

Virgin Mary Shrine in Sopra Minerva Church

We could not enter the Pantheon as a mass was underway. The incredible preservation of this impressive Roman structure is due to its immediate conversion from temple to church

The gang in front of the Pantheon

Four Rivers Fountain in Piazza Navonna

Our parting dinner at Ciccia Bomba

Janice declared this flaming Creme Brulee to be the best ever

Ron loved his Tiramisu

This was our last dinner together as the next morning Janice, Ron and I were boarding a train for a five-day tour of Assisi, Siena, Florence and Orvieto before returning to Rome and flying home. John and Marg stayed in Rome for four more days of adventure before flying home one day ahead of us. This final leg of our Mediterranean Odyssey will be the subject of the next posting: "Celebrating the Spirit of Assisi, Siena and Florence"

Ciao!